![[Index]](../../pics/index.jpg)
![[Previous Section]](../../pics/prev.jpg)
![[Next Section]](../../pics/next.jpg)
Also spelled 'fetich'.
Also spelled 'fetichism'.
Lani Teshima-Miller <teshima@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu> writes:
Even 7" heels exist, but these are rarely seen.
It is a die-hard myth that all high heels damage the foot.
This is not true! - Badly designed (cheap) heels might
cause corns or worse, but well-designed, well-fitting high
heels DOES NOT damage anything when worn even on a daily
basis, as long as the feet gets to rest at least during
the sleep period or similar (the feet needs shoeless
rest). Fanatic 24h wear is another story...
Other good tricks are to rub the feet with hand lotion and
go to bed with cotton socks on. Three nights in a row of
this will make even my 6" heels comfortable for a full
evening. Exercise will help to stretch the tendons in the
ankles and calves. A good one is just to walk on your toes
for a bit each day. Another good one is one skiers do -
put your toes on the edge of a phonebook with your heels
hanging off, raise and lower your heels stretching gently.
If she is walking in high heels on a pile rug, offer your
arm for support. Many women feel "unstable" in high heels
and the extra support is comforting.
To get her into bed with the shoes on, you might just try
carrying her to the bed while she is dressed, and removing
everything but the shoes. If all else fails, you could
always go for the bondage shoe straps which lock the heels
on, but I suspect this would freak her out worse than the
shoes.
Talk to her if she seems uncomfortable about your requests.
Find out exactly what makes her feel uncomfortable
and help her with those issues. Many women have been
raised to see this kind of behavior as "kinky", "sick", or
"slutty". Assure her that whatever makes two people happy
is just fine. Assure her that you hold her in the highest
respect and don't question her virtue. Assure her that
you want to be perfectly honest with her, rather than
hiding your desires from her.
And last, but not least, compliment her if she does wear
heels for you. Best of luck in your quest. A love for high
heels is a wonderful, abet expensive, joy.
Try not to do your first practice on shag carpet - the
heels will catch.
Try not to use your arms to balance you. Practice walking
with your hands held in the small of your back. This will
keep you from looking like a T-Rex in stilletos.
Take much smaller steps than you normally would. This will
also help to keep your shoes underneath your center of
gravity.
Keep your ankles stong and firm by lifting up until you're
standing on your tiptoes several times a day (best done
without shoes). Or hang your heels off the edge of a
phonebook and lower your heels as far as you can and then
raise up on tiptoe. Don't pull the muscles, just gently
strech.
Take every opportunity to sit down and rest your feet.
Take your escort's arm (even if they don't offer it) and
use them to help balance when going down sidewlks, over
uneven surfaces, or going down stairs.
For three night's before the big occasion, go to bed with
your feet slathered in hand cream and wearing cotton
socks. This will soften up your feet and help prevent
blisters. (Keep a band-aid or two in your bag just in
case. They also come in handy for protecting against rough
seams inside the shoes.)
Throw a pair of flats or sneakers in your car, just so
that if your feet are killing you by the end of the
night, you don't have to climb three flights of stairs to
your apartment in 5" spikes.
PS: boots might support your ankle a bit!
Exercise is a good idea to build up the calf muscles. My personal
suggestion to ensure a pleasuable experience is correct sizing of the
shoes. Do not be convinced that you can't find the write size...women's
shoes can be found in many sizes and widths (which is usually the hard
part). If you are a wide width, do not be satisfied with B width
shoes...go for the D's, Es or whatever it takes. It will make your goal
more obtainable.
Ankle support at first will help. It may be wise to gradually move from
boots to shoes. Pumps provide more stability than slings or sandals, so
work towards pumps first.
One thing that is very important to remember is, that only
very few people can wear off-the-rack corsets. Just about
everyone else is much better off getting a custom made
(and fitted) corset. If the corset doesn't fit perfectly
it will cause problems and perhaps more or less serious
damage.
If you have an item that's very dirty use saddle soap
to clean it before you use the Lexol conditioner. To
make things shine you really have to buff them. Old
jeans or old socks and lots of elbow grease works well.
Source: Michael Singer "Batman Returns: The Official Movie Book", page 28.
I do find that just plain water will remove excess powder
and leave a nice shine. It's cheaper and has no chemical
smell.
Cement, however, bonds things together chemically. The
simplest kind of cement consists of some material that is
the same as what is to be joined, which has been dissolved
in a solvent. When such a cement is applied to the surface
that's to be joined, the solvent eats into the surface,
dissolving or at least softening a small portion of it.
(The action of the solvent is limited by the fact that
it's already been saturated with the material dissolved in
it.) When the surfaces to be joined are brought into
contact, the softened or partially liquefied materials
flow together, forming a chemical weld (when all the solvent
has evaporated) that is indeed as strong or stronger
than the material which is being joined. Examples are
rubber contact cement when used on a rubber that has the
same chemical base as the cement (so that the solvent will
attack it), such as wetsuit cement (neoprene in a solvent),
tire and innertube patch cement; also PVC pipe
cement, airplane "glue" or model cement (effective on styrene
plastics), and the specialized plastic cements (the
correct one has to be used for the particular plastic
involved) available at plastics supply houses.
The main point about cements is that, if the right (chemically
compatible) cement is not being used, you will have
only a glue at best, and the bond probably won't be very
strong at all. In order to find the right cement, the
material to be joined must first be positively identified.
Like someone already mentioned, you have to know if your
rubber is in fact natural rubber (and what kind of rubber
it is), or if it's a plastic synthetic. Whenever I need
to cement something (frequently some plastic thingy that I
need to repair), I usually just take it to a (plastics)
shop, and let the experts tell me what kind of cement I
need for it.
So all you need to do is find out what is the solvent for
latex. If a shop that sells plastics and/or rubber can't
tell you, a chemistry prof at your local university possibly
could. A science librarian at a college library could
also possibly help you find out.
The basic operation is to clean both surfaces of your seam
(allow about 1/2" overlap for seams in most material,
perhaps 1/4" in only the thinnest latex), then apply cement
to both surfaces, and allow it to dry for several
minutes. Allow to dry in free air, without a fan. Seam is
ready to join when cement no longer appears glossy, typically
at_least five minutes. Do not attempt to join
immediately.
After joining the seam, use a narrow roller, such as a
nylon or wooden ink brayer, also available at art stores,
to roll the seam under high pressure. This is necessary
for a good strong joint.
Now the problems:
You'll need to get rubber cement (Elmer's, etc.), rubber
cement thinner, acetone, drafting tape and pure talc.
Place the torn spot face up on a flat surface and work the
split area closed along its original lines. When the tear
is aligned place a strip of drafting tape over the tear
area to hold it togther.
Use drafing tape instead of masking tape!!! Drafting
tape looks just like masking tape but has a greatly
reduced tack to it (it ain't as sticky!).
Next, lay the patch over the area to be glued and apply a
very small piece of tape to keep it aligned (Like a
hinge). Now lay the patch over to expose the gluing surface.
It helps to put some waxed paper under the patch so
that you don't slop glue onto areas not to be patched.
Pour some of the acetone onto a cloth and clean the areas
to be cemented. This includes the patch as well. Do this
in a ventilated area.
Thin a small quantity of the rubber cement by about half
with the cement thinner and apply it to both surfaces
(patch and patch area). Wait about two minutes or so until
the glue has dried (maybe longer) and then gently roll the
patch over the tear area.
Wait a few minutes before removing the tape but DO remove
the tape!
Sprinkle the patched area with talcum powder to kill the
tack of the remaining cement and voila'. Away you go.
The most common method is to measure from the base of the heel to the
point where the heel first meets the sole, i.e. the inside edge of the
heel. The height is measured in eighths of an inch.
The other method used is to measure from the base straight up the
centerline of the heel until it intersects the sole. This gives a slightly
higher measurement than the first method.
In either case, the actual increase in your height is greater because you
get elevated by the amount at the back of the heel.
Also, the larger the shoe size the easier it is to wear a higher heel.
It's got to do with the triangle formed by the heel height and length of
the shoe. A smaller size has a much steeper angle for the same heel
height.
The problem is not with feet--it's with your back and your
posture. High heels throw your whole spine out of whack
because of the way it makes you stand--makes it curve
differently. I think it used to lead to sore backs for me.
There is one very important thing to remember about high
heels and starting to wear them, is that many people don't
have trained ankles. You have to first learn how to walk
in them, learn how not to wobble (by training your balance
and ankles), and learn how to react when you happen to
bend your ankle. I used to do this A LOT but never
sprained it because I'd worn high heels all the time. But
if your ankle's not used to it, watch out!
First good thing to try is to ask her, but not when you're
already in bed. Try some evening after dinner, "I really
think you have beautiful legs and feet. I would love it if
you would wear heels to bed some time." It's always easier
if the other person feels that they are giving you a
gift rather than being pressured into doing something that
might make them uncomfortable. Buy her a really nice pair
of heels. Well made, and unfortunately expensive, shoes
will fit better and be much more comfortable than the $20
"all man made materials" throwaways that most shoe stores
carry. I have a pair of extremely expensive thigh-high
leather boots that fit perfectly. I can be on my feet all
night, either at home or out at an event like ManRay, and
my feet don't hurt. Shoe pads are good. The little Dr.
Scholls (sp?) pads for the balls of the feet will make any
high heels more comfortable. More comfortable = worn more
often!
Patent leather stretches a little eventually, as does any
shoe material. Also, the material is of course new, so
consequently a bit stiff. Once you put a few "miles" on
them, they should soften up and have more give. If these
were plain leather (not patent), I'd recommend neetsfoot
oil to accelerate the softening process. But the patent
finish would be impervious to it, and the oil (if applied
from inside the vamp) could damage the finish.
I would suggest (unless it's too late) that you spend
several hours with them on carpeted floors to make sure
that they'll work out, so that you can return them if they
don't.
Noire writes:
I put double half-sole cushions in the bottom, right under
the ball of the foot where the most pressure (and pain)
builds. The pads take up enough space that the shoes fit
fairly comfortably and they also keep my feet from sliding
forward. I'd recommend using them for any heels.
In my experience it does-- the
higher heels tend to shift your weight more to the balls
of your feet. Your feet will also tend to slide forward,
putting more pressure on your toes.
Ms. Margo writes:
Yes it does, since most of your weight
will be on the balls of your feet and that's a lot of
pressure on your toes. If all else fails, go to a dance
shop and buy some lambswool (which they sell for toe
shoes) to wrap around your toes to prevent blisters.
Ankle training and ankle strength are very important, or
you could twist an ankle and seriously hurt yourself. I
found that walking (and hiking), bicycle riding, and ice
skating all helped. Balance is of course important. Think
of a line, like the blade of an ice skate, under the mid-
dle of your foot from heel to toe, and try to center your
weight over it for each foot as you walk. Experiment with
your posture to balance your weight between your heels and
the balls of your feet, first while standing still, then
while walking. You'll probably want something or someone
handy to help steady yourself while you're getting the
knack. When you do go out, always be conscious of where
you walk. Finally, restrictive clothing probably isn't a
good idea while you're trying to learn...
Ms. Margo writes:
Well, take an emory board or a small bit of sandpaper and
rough up the bottoms so they're not so slick. That will
help to keep the shoe from sliding out from under you if
you get your balance wrong.
I have found that some people can wear heels "much" easier than others.
I have been wearing heels since the second grade and never had a problem
with heels and now wear exclusivly 5" or higher. If you are one of those
who are "stilletolly chanllenged" then I suggest exercise the calf
muscles, walk on the balls of your feet even when barefoot, and try a
clunky heel to get used to the heigth of the heel.
Karen (karenc@ottawa.net) writes:
The key here is that you have to work at it. It takes balance, and
strength to wear heels consistently. I have worked myself up to a
minimum height of 3.5 inch heels for everyday wear (boots for winter and
shoes for the office).
Get an old pair of your jeans. Put them on. Sit down on
the floor. Polish the leather on your thigh until it feels
like the jeans are going to catch on fire.
Different types of leather polish differently. Some types
of leather will polish minimally, others will take a good
gloss.
Lexol is the stuff you want. Be careful using it on
thin or garment leathers because while the item is
still damp with Lexol it can be stretched very easily.
I ruined a nice pair of gloves once by putting them on
when they were still damp after being Lexoled. Allow
them to dry well before use.
ISBN 0-553-37030-8
Baby powder helps here, or if you look at SCUBA diving wet
suit material, one version has smooth nylon on the inside
and latex on the outside.
I firmly believe that one should use pure talc for latex
rather than baby powder, which contains oils. However, I
know that there are plenty of laissez-faire folks out
there who use baby powder and have never had a problem.
For the record, I use only pure talc on my latex. I'm a
bit paranoid since I had a lovely hood that disolved a
hole from being put away without being washed. I have
learned my lesson; you can't cheat when it comes to caring
for latex. I use Black Beauty polish when I want a serious
shine. (Tip: Apply it with one of those large flat foam
brushes that hardware stores sell for painting moldings.)
The following is from a piece of
paper the guy at Body Worship gave me when I made my pur-
chase. It is entirely a direct quote.
TAKING CARE OF YOUR LATEX
Glue sticks things together by adhesion. It more or less
flows into the "rough" surface (of even something smooth,
like glass) of whatever it is you want to join, creating a
bond. Examples are using rubber contact cement to glue
wood, paper, etc. (but not rubber), white glue on anything,
superglue (believe it or not), and most adhesive
tapes. The main point about glues is that the bond is only
physical, based on its ability to grip the surface it's
being used to join.
If you don't mind doing a little more research, and your
own simple chemistry, you could possibly make your own
(glue). Many rubber and plastic cements (eg. such as the
neoprene cement surfers and divers use to patch wetsuits)
are nothing more than some of the rubber or plastic dissolved
in an appropriate solvent. When applied to the
material to be bonded, the solvent eats into and softens
the surface, allowing it to integrate with what's dissolved
in the solvent. As the solvent evaporates, the
whole thing becomes bonded together.
Tony@morgan.demon.co.uk (Tony Kidson) writes:
As an ex-chemist, I believe that Xylene is a good solvent
for this application.
Bill Lemieux <blemieux@nyx.cs.du.edu> writes:
Best-Test paper cement is a _latex_ based cement available
at art stores. Any other cement you can find that contains
latex as a binder, and heptane as the solvent, will also
work. You will also need to buy some Bestine cement thinner.
Thin the cement about 1:1- it contains too little
solvent as it comes in the can.
The real trick invovles holding the seam together while
you glue the patch in and also in keeping the patch from
curling after you apply the cement. Here's how I've done
it repairs for over 25 years now...
*** NOTE ***
Now place a strip of tape over your patch material (on the
shiny side) and you may now cut (with scissors) a patch
that will exactly cover the area to be repaired (I always
give about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch of coverage on either
side of the tear).Sitting on a chair, wearing your usual hosiery or socks,
place your foot on a plain piece of cardboard. Have someone
hold a different piece of cardboard vertically at the
heel, then draw a line where the two cardboard pieces
meet. Then hold the cardboard at the end of the longest
toe. Draw a line here as well. Now remove your foot and
measure the distance in centimeters or millimeters between
the two lines. Now consult the shoe size conversion table
in the next part of the FAQ.
There are at least two different ways that manufacturers measure the
height of a heel.
At the height of its popularity the corset was available in
many specialized forms. There were tennis corsets, swimming
corsets, hip corsets, electrical corsets, abdominal strengthening
corsets, men's corsets, training corsets (complete with crossing
shoulder straps and attachable thigh-high boots, to prevent the
young trainee from removing her corset), and amazingly, maternity
corsets. There were several magazines exclusively devoted to
corset culture. Most notably among them was "The Wasp", published
in London. It was felt that corsets not only molded a Lady's body,
but also her character. It compressed her waist, raised her bosom,
flattened her stomach, rounded her hips, straightened her back,
lifted her head, shortened her steps to an appropriate 12" gait,
kept her from being wild and tomboyish in her behavior, and
"instilled a properly submissive attitude."
B.R. Creations is run by Ruth Johnson. She is very dedicated
to corsetry and makes the best corsets on American soil.
(Actually, she produces some of the only ones, but who's
quibbling.) Her corsets are meant for daily wear are very durable.
She also produces a corsetry newsletter that comes out four times
yearly. Her color catalog is $7.00 for the U.S. and Canada, $10
for overseas. The Corset Newsletter (6 issues/year) is $18.00 for
the U.S. and Canada, $24.00 for overseas.
As you go further into waist training, you find that
adjustments have to be made in the lifestyle, especially in
eating habits. Meals will have to be much smaller and more
frequent. Since the corset compresses the intestines rather
severely, a large heavy meal will cause discomfort at best
and serious pain at worst. It is recommended to have 5-6
light meals, rather that the 3 large meals most people eat,
and to let out the laces a few inches before eating -
retightening an hour or so later. Since the success of the
training depends on the amount of time that a corset is worn,
rather than how tightly it is laced, sleeping will be altered
to include sleeping in the corset. Eventually only a few
hours a day for washing will be spent without the corset.
Rapidly lacing to a very small waist will appear to have the
quickest results, but it is the easiest way to actually harm
your body. It is much better to lace the corset snugly, but
not uncomfortably so, and wear it for a longer period of
time.
The world's smallest waist belonged to Mrs. Ethel Granger
(deceased). At her ultimate her waist measured just 13".
This took a lifetime of work to achieve and she lived to the
ripe old age of 77. However, her figure was so modified,
with her lower ribs collapsed, that few would find it
attractive.
My ASCII art skills are minimal, but I will attempt the
drawings:
To keep the pressure on the lower back to a minimum have a
well fitting corset; this will help to support the body
rather than crimp it. Do not overlace it; pull the laces
snug and tight, but not uncomfortably so. If the compression
is painful, unlace the corset and start again. Do not lace
it too rapidly; lace it snugly and if necessary tighten the
laces after the corset has been worn for a few hours. Do not
try to lace the corset tight in one pass; tighten the laces
in stages to allow your internal organs time to adjust to the
compression. Lace from both ends to the middle pullers
rather than from top to bottom; this will help to keep the
laces from sliding and also help to keep from overlacing the
bottom of the corset relative to the top. Do not try to
force positions that the corset will not allow. Especially
harmful to the back is bending forward from the waist.
Instead, bend the knees and reach down. Keeping your body in
good shape will also help to strengthen your back. You might
want to start a regime of "crunches" (not straight leg
sit-ups) or other exercises that strengthen the muscles of
the abdomen and lower back. Eventually, you'll feel more
comfortable in your corset than out of it.
One must remember the three components of successful figure training:
Diet, exercise, and the proper selection and use of the garment. The
diet component is interpretive: Other than the fact that special
attention should be paid to the waist area muscles, any regimen which
reduces body fat is satisfactory. It is important to remember that fat
exists on the inside of your body, as well as the outside, and hinders the
proper transit and relocation of internal organs during tightlacing (It
also simply takes up space, and the goal of corset training is to reduce
mass). Six meals, rather than the customary two per day, is suggested.
Obviously, these meals should be small, and consistent with comtemporary
healthy diet recommended.
Your first corset should be purchased in a size that is four inches less
than your measured girth; that is, CLOSED. The importance of having your
corsets professionally fitted, especially for training purposes, cannot be
overemphasized. Your comfort and health, to say nothing of proper visual
impact, DEPEND upon an exact fitting. In addition, most chaffing can be
avoided by wearing a properly sized garment.
The key word in garment-size progression is "gradual". One wants to treat
oneself with love, and it takes TIME for a body to acclimate itself to the
strictures of tightlacing. These four inches should be taken in slowly,
day by day, or week by week if necessary. Once this has happened, and one
is comfortable, the next progression should be to a garment a further four
inches smaller--This may take two months or six, depending on the
trainee. The older corset should be used for night confinement: One
should almost ALWAYS be corsetted, except for toilette ac- tivities.
Never be without a corset for more than an hour. If this is impossible, a
wide training belt should be purchased--organ and lower rib displacement
is the goal and the body reacts well to consistency. However, one must
NEVER be uncomfortable, especially when sitting (in a straight-backed
chair, of course!).
You must pay special attention to your skin: The wearing of a corset will
of, course, deprive healthy skin of proper exposure to air (oxygen). This
will tend to dry it or, at times (depending on the wearer) cause
chaffing, especially if perspiration is present. Thus, it is important to
apply moisturizing oils or lotions to the skin at every possible
opportunity, followed by talc, especially if one has a tendency to
perspire excessively.
Care must also be paid in keeping the garment clean, as oil and chemicals
will tend to shorten its life. One of the more popular devices used for
such purpose is a sheath made of a material commonly referred to as
"bathing suit" cloth; these spandex-like tubes can easily be fashioned
and worn underneath the corset. Of course, you must have a clean one for
every new corsetted day! While many like the idea of pretty lingerie
underneath, be aware that corset pressure will tend to stretch and/or rip
delicate fabrics (the spandex tube, however, will shrink to accommodate
your ever-smaller stays!).
Efficient ways for donning your stays include the lacing bar, and laying
prone on the floor. Both these methods allow the waist to contract to its
smallest circumference, permitting easier application of the garment.
Also bear in mind that it is possible for you (with practice) to put on
your own corset, without assistance, after you are down to your desired
girth. However, it is recommended that you employ a SENSITIVE partner to
help you during training, as the rigor can be demanding. Remember that
only the person inside a corset truly knows, from moment-to-moment, the
effects of the lacing.
A well-made corset will be sold with an insert, generally made of the same
material as the garment itself, which will fit under the lacing, to
prevent binding of the skin as the laces are pulled closed.
So far as choice of materials for a corset, one will find that various
types fulfill various requirements. For instance, a leather corset will
mold easily to the body and breathe, while a latex or hard rubber garment
will induce perspiration, which, for some, provides an excellent way to
spur on weight loss. However, the average person will find a cotton or
coutil garment (perhaps with an overlay of brocade or silk to add spice
and sexiness) to be quite satisfactory. One should just keep in mind that
most garments, regardless of material, require a "breaking-in" period of
several wearings.
Most corsets come with cotton lacings. I recommend they be replaced with
the stronger (and less bulky) nylon version.
A well-constructed garment, especially one made for training, will have
double-stays (the sprung-metal rods sewn into the corset vertically at
regular intervals all round). In addition, a strong cloth "ribbon",
usually sewn into the interior, should circle the corset horizontally from
the lacingstay to the frontbusk (a busk being a much wider stay which
anchors the front hook-and-eye clo- sure). This feature strengthens the
corset and aids in the prevention of tearing.
Those who value posture training while preparing for a small waist might
also consider optional shoulder-straps. These will hold the shoulders
back and, thus, the head erect. Of course, a matching laced
"neck-corset" achieves the same end with more aesthetic quality.
The effect of a tightly-laced corset is further enhanced by the wearing of
high-heeled shoes, even while training. These tend to thrust the body
forward, providing a visually pleasing balance to the your picture of
loveliness.
A tiny waist is a wonder to behold - exotic artistry of the female form;
the end-result of such diligent training is highly satisfying. But the
pride of knowing that one is capable of the self-discipline to accomplish
such a feat is reward unto itself!
The following was written by Ms. Margo
The corset is a very old garment. If we use the term to
loosely describe a garment meant to constrict the waist of the
wearer, then there are examples of corsets depicted on statuettes
from Minoan Crete dating to approximately 1600 B.C. The corset as
we know it today, with its stays, busk, and laces, came into
general vogue in the mid 1700's and reached it's height of
popularity at the turn of the century and began to decline in the
1920's with the invention of camiknickers, the forerunner of the
modern teddy, and brassieres.
Post Office Box 4201
Mountain View, California 94040
U.S.A.
( )
( )
( )
( )
( )
( ) <-----Normal Waistline
( )
( )
( )
( ) <-----Normal Hipline
( )
( )
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ / <-----Elevated Waistline
/ \
/ \<-----Normal Waistline
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \ <-----Normal Hipline
/ \
/ \
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ / <-----Normal Waistline
( )
( )
( )
( ) <-----Normal Hipline
( )
( )
Body Play
Subscriptions (4 issues/year) are $45.00 U.S. and Canada,
$55.00 overseas. Back issues are $12.00 U.S. and Canada, $14.00 overseas.
c/o Insight Books
Post Office Box 2575
Menlo Park, California 94026
U.S.A.
Sandmutopia Guardian
Subscriptions (6 issues/year) are $24.00 U.S. and Canada,
$35.00 overseas. Order back issues from:
Desmodus, Inc.
Post Office Box 410390
San Francisco, California 94141
U.S.A.
RoB, Inc.
24 Shotwell Street
San Francisco, California 94103
U.S.A.
The following was written by:
Corset training is, by its nature and intended outcome, a "labour of
love". Without commitment, all efforts will fail.
THOMAS B. LIERSE <staylace@aol.com>
Copyright © 1992 by Tes Staylace
PRESIDENT, LONG ISLAND STAYLACE ASSOCIATION
(AVOCATIONAL VICTORIAN AND EDWARDIAN CORSETRY)